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Wednesday, January 25, 2017

Thai Road Trip. Bangkok to Phuket & Phuket to Pha Phanang

Thai Road trip

I have taken 3 Road trips in Thailand in 2016 December. Bangkok to Phuket, Phuket to Pha Phanang and Phuket to Pha Panang. All the trips were done with my Thai family and were such an adventure of cultural differences that I thought they had to be documented.


Travelling down to the south of Thailand was done in Kassem's mini van. Kassem does transfers to and from Krabi Airport from the Beaches and the Phi Phi Piers. Kassem is a quiet man who takes his driving seriously and we progressed south in great cheer. The women talked endlessly about the next stop, the previous day's diner and the next breakfast stop.





We had started the day at the Centre Point Grand Hotel at Ploenchit in the center of Bangkok and were driven out to Coke's house. This took about 45 minutes. This was done as Kassem was not sure of the roads in the center of Bangkok and rather than get lost and loose hours, one of the nephews picked us up and took us north away from our destination. So having started the day with a detour we were on the road at about 6am, just before the Monday morning traffic.

Centre Point Grand Hotel at Ploenchit with family
After about an hour and a half we stopped at a petrol station to stretch our legs, have a toilet break and hunt down  bit to eat. There seems nothing more appealing to Thai people from the south than to go looking for food. The anticipation and the talk about the potential food is an all engrossing subject that provides the prelim for what is eaten.


The family split out and Kassem headed for the MC Donald's for a coffee. Suree, her brother Baan Ali and I found a smart looking cafe serving morning foods. I had Khaow Tom, (rice soup), and Baan Ali had Bai krapow, minced chicken on rice with a fried egg.

We travelled south with the men including myself quiet as the women talked on about the food they had and how much better or worse it was than in the south. The conversation turned to family and the pros and cons of this girlfriend, husband was bandied around for a while before returning to the key subject one hunt for the next food experience. As we passed various areas along the road, the local people would sell what ever was considered their speciality. Grape fruits were in season and their were countless shack stalls with shade for the seller and piles of the fruit. Next it would be Long Kong fruit or grass brushes, or honey or eggs, a whole kaleidoscope of differing produce made, or procured from the land.

This is the mama and papa business ethic of huge numbers of Thai merchants. This way of life prioritises Independence, small scale,  flexible and intimate business. The government only Taxes these type of traders in a very small way as it is such a large group of voting people.
Local grass products and bags of rice
Local grass products and bags of rice
This group of people has flourished free of the shackles of government oversite, health and safety and all the other burdens of modern life in the west. The continual site of people selling their wares along the street gives an impression of a vibrant merchant economy. This is under threat from the modern corporates who now are able sell everything efficiently and cheaply and hygienically and in air con. Businesses  like 7 Eleven and Family Mart are covering Thailand. I hope these small stall holders last as they make a truly interesting site along the roads of Thailand.

Random guy promoting his business
We stopped at Hua Hin to visit a street full of the way it was about 40 years ago. The shops were full of Memorabelia and photos of times gone by, perhaps an innocent time before the Internet and mobile phones. Like all countries I have visited including my very own England the nostalgia for these simpler times runs through all countries.I snapped an image of the recently Late King while he was making the Sailing boat from wood. This actual boat can be seen in the Reception area of the Boat Lagoon Hotel In Phuket.






Typical back streets in some of the towns we visited for a bite to eat
Typical back streets in some of the towns we visited for a bite to eat





Minibus view of the road to Chumpon
Minibus view of the road to Chumpon

Sunset near Surat thani
Sunset near Surat Thani

On south again and we stopped at Chumpoon and Kiri Khan before heading over to the west side of the country to Phuket. This was done in the dark and the roads are not lit so added care was taken by Kassem to get us safely over the Sarasin Bridge to Phuket.

Phuket to Pak Panang

3 days later we set off on our Road Trip to Pak Phanang in Nakhorn SI Thammarat Province. This was different in that I was driving my old Honda CRV which must be 12 years old. The roads covered must take you through some of the most beautiful scenery in southern Thailand. As soon as you get off Phuket island you are confronted with a very green untouched landscape with views of mountains to the north and Limestone Karst scenery around the northern end of Phangna Bay. 


Phang Nga layby-stunning scenery
Phang Nga layby-stunning scenery


This road is always one of the highlights of any drive I do in Southern Thailand. We used to live in Krabi but go to the hospital in Phuket for my son, Thomas and had to make this road trip quiet regularly. I would stop as often as I could to learn something new about the road and attractions near by. It certainly is worth doing with a good map and having an explore. Reminder: Road between Phuket and Krabi.

Quieter roads along the jungle path
Quieter roads along the jungle path
View on the dual carriage way heading south
Just before we reached Krabi Town we turned off at Ao Luk (really fresh market) and headed east across the country. This area is like time forgot with hectares upon hectares of rubber, palm and virgin jungle in every direction you look. The road is quite windy as the road winds its way between small villages and mountain ranges anymore Karst limestone scenery. If you find a stop on market day, you won't find anything fresher for local produce off the land.


Side streets in to the country around Krabi
Side streets in to the country around Krabi


As you near Nakhorn SI Thamarat Province you are confronted with one of Southern Thailands biggest mountains. To get through and around this takes a lot longer that it might suggest as the massif is so large. If the scenery was remote when we crossed the Kra Isthmus the and scale became more dramatic with the signs of huge waterfalls appearing high up along the foothills. The east coast experiences a totally different weather pattern in December to the West coast so the land was verdant, the rivers full and many fields flooded.
We skirted the main town of Nakhorn SI Thamarrat and headed over the last 28 km flat lands to Pak Phanang. Many houses on stilts were flooded and had small canoe s tied up to the steps at the entrances. Men could be seen wading through swamps with nets trying to catch the river fish that appear everywhere in these conditions.



Arriving at Pak Phanang after 6.5 hours we settled in to some fine hospitality at Baan Ali's house and ate river prawn and a whole range of delicacies.












Just before Nakhorn Si Thammarat
Just before Nakhorn Si Thammarat





Tags: #roadtrip, roadtrip, road trip, thai, thailand, #thai, #thailand



Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Koh Phi Phi Transport after the nightlife


Q. Planning to stay in the north of Koh Phi Phi at Laem Tong Beach but need to party all night at the center of the island where all the bars are located near the main pier. Do long tail boats go all night long? 
A. Availability will be better in high season Nov-March but normally the answer is yes. Sounds like an excellent plan? The Holiday Inn has a fine reputation and so does the party scene in the main village.
Slinky Nightlife Party scene on Koh Phi Phi
Slinky Nightlife Party scene on Koh Phi Phi


Koh Phi Phi Longtail at night

 Longtailboat trips to Laem Tong beach at night.

To get from Loh Dalum beach to Leam Tong beach after dark is not set in stone as the longtail drivers will charge depending on the time of day. There is a day time price (pretty fixed), upto midnight (varies a little) and then a negotiated price after that. Longtails Boats usually take up to 6 peopole for night taxis.
If you are on Loh Dalum beach, the place where all the late night bars dancing on the beach are (Slinkies, Woodies etc), this is the place to get a longtail. This is the shortest way to Laem Tong but about 40% less distance.   IF the tide is out or there are no longtails, you will need to walk 10 minutes over the to the main pier and get a boat from there. This route will take you round Long Beach, Past Phi Phi Island Village at Loh Bagao beach and then on to Laem Tong.
The short way takes about 18 minutes direct from the Loh Dalum beach to Laem Tong Beach, the longer way, including the walk to the pier (Koh Phi Phi Pier ) will take 40-50 minutes.


Longtail boat route map from Koh Phi Phi Nightlife to Laem Tong
Longtail boat route map from Koh Phi Phi Nightlife to Laem Tong


Koh Phi Phi Longtail near the main pier


Koh Phi Phi Speedboats at night

Speedboats dont tend to go at night and even when they do they go pretty slow.
Longtail Boat driver near the pier

Walking to Laem Tong Beach from the main village.

If you decide you want to walk to Laem Tong it is about an hour and half, but not for the faint hearted as the trail start point keeps on getting overgrown, especially in low season. From Slinkies bar you look out to sea and then head right (east) along the shoreline and other small resorts. The beach curves round to the north and you follow the beach trail till you come to a sign for Loh Bagao, Phi Phi Island village up a simple mud track. The up and over the ridge is about 18 minutes till you reach civilization again. I wouldn't suggest this without a day time recce and a torch. From here you go over to the bridge on the creak and then you are only 2km from Laem Tong Beach and the Holiday Inn.

Map of walk from Nightlife beach to Laem Tong on Koh Phi Phi
Map of walk from Nightlife beach to Laem Tong on Koh Phi Phi

Laem Tong Beach
Koh Phi Phi Laem Tong Beach early morning
Other links: 

Phi Phi Island Transportation


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Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Pre Book Koh Phi Phi or Find accommodation on Arrival - January

Koh Phi Phi in January
Koh Phi Phi in January


I would definitely recommend to book in advance for any accommodation in January on #KohPhiPhi.

All resorts, hotels, guesthouses, dorms accommodation are thoroughly reviewed by tripsadvisor and booking.com etc and by the mechanics of 'best booked first', get taken. If you turn up and try to get a place to stay by walking around there is bound to be rooms available but you can easily end up with something that is less than perfect, in the wrong location and / or, at a higher price than your budget. If you are lucky you can get a recently completed room that hasn't got round to promoting or hasn't been picked up by social media.

Availability on Koh Phi Phi in January
Availability on Koh Phi Phi in January

If you book late for January you can be getting yourself into the same situation so book early. Most accommodation is available a good 9 months or more ahead of check in so it is possible to do your research and find your quality, budget and location in the comfort of home without lugging your luggage around in 30 degrees C looking for the best spot.

To give you an idea of Koh Phi Phi occupancy in Coco's guesthouse was 96% in Jan in 2016, 93% in Jan in 2015 and 93% in Jan 2015. Coco's is just a 1 star guesthouse so you can understand that Koh Phi Phi is very full in this period.

It does get less busy after about 20th January but it is still busy.

Koh Phi Phi main Village accommodation
Koh Phi Phi main Village accommodation


To memorable travels and to Waking up Happy!,


More on Coco's at; http://ppcocos.com
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Traveling to Phi Phi Island on a budget

Friday, September 30, 2016

Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island or Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort?

Laem Tong Beach in front of  Phi Phi Holiday Inn Resort
Laem Tong Beach in front of  Phi Phi Holiday Inn Resort

Distance between Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island & Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort

The geography and transport are the key to this question. The Loh Bagao and Laem Tong beaches are unconnected by roads so there are no cars (although there is a flat jeep track between the 2 beaches which is about a 35 minute walk)). Its all about the speedboats or longtail boats times between  Laem Tong Beach and . These resorts are about 3 km apart.



Both these Koh Phi Phi resorts are good as they say in their websites and on reviewing websites like TripAdvisor and booking.com. In fact they are in the top 4 resorts on an island with over 100 different accommodations, resorts down to dormatory.


Distance from the main village to Loh Bagao and Laem Tong Beaches

It takes about 20 minutes from the main village and pier for a longtail boat to PP Island Village and about 25 minutes to PP Holiday Inn at Laem Tong beach. Speedboat difference is about 2-3 minutes so there isn't really a massive difference between the 2 beaches.


Longtail Boats Thailand
Longtail Boats Koh Phi Phi


Cost of Longtail boat and speedboat to Loh Bagao and Laem Tong Beaches.

The courtesy longtail boats from both resorts leave from both resort at around 08.00 and 13.00 in time for the ferries.

In 2016 a one way Longtail from the main village to Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort costs 1,000THB (£22, $28, E 25) and the same to Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island is 1,300THB (£28, $37, E 33) . This private longtail will take 3 people + luggage. A private small speedboat for 1-5 people to the resorts is 4,500THB (£100, $129, E115). These prices were taken from the travel agency Siam UK Travel and Tours, 70 from the pier. Note these prices will go up and down depending on the time of the quote but serve as as a good ball park.
Speedboat on Koh Phi Phi
Speedboat on Koh Phi Phi


Koh Phi Phi luxury

Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island


http://ppcocos.com/    1 star Guesthouse on Koh Phi Phi
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